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Archive: Fashion

BCALLA_FW2014_02

While I tend to agree with VICE writer Sophie Heawood when she states that fashion “doesn’t look like a place I would go if I needed a hug”, young DIY labels like the Brooklyn based BCALLA prove that fashion can still be fun, smart and shape the identity of a community. For the look book to his latest collection ”The Sodomites of Sans-Souci” designer Bradley Callahan has invited friends and family for a get-together with photographer Michael Burk, and the result is fabulous. And really, who wouldn’t want a hug from people like Juliana Huxtable or Colin Self?

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ASSK is a Paris based fashion label founded by Australians Agatha Kowalewski and Sarah Schofield in 2012. With its latest collection the duo has expanded their primary focus from unisex graphic printed shirts and accessories to full looks, both reinforcing and subverting gender roles at the same time. According to the duo the collection is “heavily inspired by motor cross uniforms. The designs also take inspiration from the tribal family culture and graphic face painting of Juggalos, fans of horror-core hip hop, mainly from middle America.” The collection was shot by rising Brooklyn based photographer, art director filmmaker Christelle de Castro, who you might know for her work for labels such as Opening Ceremony or Hood By Air or her contributions to V Magazin or DIS Mag. For more photos from the shooting please visit Christelle’s website or www.asskclothing.com.

“It is not about gender. It is about being fierce.” (Casey Legler in The Guardian)

The latest lookbook by Berlin based label Glyph is a retrospective of fashion designer Lisa Steegmann’s work from the past few years. The shoot was a collaboration with Australian photographer Gerwyn Davies and was executed in Summer 2013. The designer told us that the duo chose to shoot at several of Berlin’s public recreational spaces as they were “interested in highlighting the pieces physicality in these areas which reflect movement and play”.

This is not the first time emerging fashion designer Holly Fox-Lee is featured on this blog, I’ve already posted her amazing Central Saint Martins graduate collection from 2009 here with a little delay in 2011. After the graduation Holly has worked for and with labels and designers such as Jeremy Scott, Cassette Playa and Tatty Devine and has now finally started her own London-based label The Print Dept. In our Q&A the designer talks about her trippy, flower-print-heavy first collection “Elevation I”, which was released just recently and is available on The Print Dept. website. You find full look book shot by photographer Winter Vandenbrink there as well. The interview was conducted by Pierre Bastille.

Holly, tell me a bit more about your new label.

I decided to start my own label at the end of 2012, I had been producing print and textiles for companies all over the place since graduating from Central Saint Martins. I had always planned to do my own thing but was adamant I would only get started when felt ready and like I’d had enough experience to move forward independently.

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The young Lisbon based fashion label HIBU. creates street wear that transcends gender barriers, combining deconstructive elements with functionality, comfort and a little bit of drama. About his new YOUTH collection 22-years-old HIBU. co-founder and designer Gonçalo Páscoa writes: “YOUTH was born out of melancholia out of the carefree feeling we used to have as kids… That feeling that allowed us to play and imagine beyond what others wanted or thought about us. We had no rules, no boundaries, only freedom to be whatever and whomever we felt like it. This collection is all about that, that freendom. It tries to showcase an effortless, adrogynous and comfortable style by deconstructing basics and having a sporty feel. The movie Lords of Dogtown also played a major role when it comes to esthetics because it sums up all of the above thanks to the coolest skaters that ruled back in the days. YOUTH is a celebration of freedom and style.” You find a behind the scenes video of the lookbook shooting on Vimeo. All pictures (c) HIBU.

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Ryuichi Shiroshita aka Hachi was born in Fukuoka, Japan and has started his Tokyo based fashion label BALMUNG in 2008 at the age of 21, shortly after finishing fashion school. Amongst the customers of the young label are Lady Gaga and the Tokyo based DJ and electro musician Mademoiselle Yulia, the designer has also collaborated with artists such as Terence Koh and his magazine THE international (#8). A beautiful shooting of his latest BALMUNG collection “Tokyo Trash Utopia” (preview below), for which Hachi worked with typical Tokyo trash bags, was released just recently and can be found in its entirety (+video) on the website Tokyo Dandy. I also really like the collection for this years summer season entitled “Sand”, which can be previewed below as well. The full shooting by Wataru Fukaya / Shunt Takano can be found on the label’s website.

Fall/Winter 2013/14 “Tokyo Trash Utopia”

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Shot by Zak Krevitt, jewelry by Chris Habana and Santiago Casanova.
More pictures on the OAK blog, more Juliana here.

This picture was quite popular on our Facebook page and I like it a lot, so I decided to share it here as well. It was taken by Los Angeles based photographer Catherine Opie for a Rodarte book published in 2011. You can order the publication for a reduced price via Amazon, fore more information about the book check out Artbook.com. I found the picture on the consistently amazing CruiseorbeCruised tumblr.

(c) Catherine Opie / Rodarte

Sir New York is a young high-end-streetwear/ sportswear label with a twist founded by Brooklyn based designer Auston Bjorkman, a graduate from the Fashion Institute of Technology in NYC. Bjorkman, who has also studied Patternmaking, Couture Sewing and Fashion Design in San Francisco and used to design fetish and leather gear for Mr. S Leather, describes the label’s latest collection as inspired by “dying glaciers” (<3), while combining print with different techniques and materials such as natural and technical fibers and neoprene.
The pictures of the collection I posted below were shot by photographer and Original Plumbing editor Amos Mac, who has featured the designer in the zine’s fashion issue (#5,) in 2010. The complete shooting can be found on Facebook, for an alternative version focussed on model Shaun Ross and all other Sir NY collections visit the label’s website. All pictures (c) Sir NY / Amos Mac.

GODDESS is a new fashion label founded by designer David Siferd, a graduate from the fashion department of the Kent State University in Ohio, who has also attended the Paris-American Academy. His first collection, simply entitled “Volume 1″, is now available on the label’s website and combines digital prints with shiny materials and suburban chic. The collection comes with a beautiful look book that can be ordered online as well. We’ve interviewed David about his approach as a designer and his idea to create streetwear that breaks with the usual stereotypes. For more pictures of the collection please check out www.goddessclothingco.com.

Since I was very young I knew I wanted to be a fashion designer. Growing up I would always like to draw people and I loved imagining clothes for them to wear. When I was older I moved to college and studied fashion design in Ohio where I grew up, then also studied design in Paris and New York. It had always been my plan to have my own label, and when one of my friends began his own label just after graduating, it really inspired me to start my own label as well.

How would you describe the influences for your first collection? Did you have a certain “traget group” or scene in mind when you designed it?

The main idea for my first collection was essentially to make a number of pieces that I loved, and that were something completely new. I was inspired by my friends and a few people whose style I admire – people who are originals, who always do and wear what they want regardless of society’s standards. When I go shopping for clothes these days, I feel so bored and uninspired by what I see; everything seems to be targeted for a certain specific demographic and I find that a bit patronizing and unsavory. Instead with GODDESS I want to create designs that anyone can feel inspired by and comfortable to wear.
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